06. The ethical knitter's guide (Part 2): Animal welfare & fair labor at Wolly Roger

Hello, knitters, and raise the anchor!

Today, we continue our exploratory adventure into the world of knitting ethics. Cast off the moorings, we're setting sail for a better world!

After navigating the murky waters of the textile industry and its repercussions on the environment, today we're addressing the crucial issues of animal welfare and social problems. Far from being as "abstract" for the consumer as the pollution of groundwater or illegal dumps on the other side of the world, the mistreatment of animals and humans affects us because it calls for empathy; it's more direct, more brutal.

Respect for Animals: Wolly Roger's Ethical Approach

Mulesing-Free Merino Wool: A Cruelty-Free Choice

Wolly Roger is proud to state that all its yarns are guaranteed mulesing-free. This means that the animal breeders who produce our beautiful fibers absolutely do not practice mulesing. Mulesing is a common surgical procedure in Australia, which produces 75% to 90% of the merino wool used in the textile industry. Very often practiced by farmers and without anesthesia, it involves the removal of skin around a lamb's tail to prevent parasites from settling in the skin folds. This practice only concerns merino sheep, and Australia is the last country in the world to perform it.

Wolly Roger doesn't have a tail (and neither do I!), but we can very well imagine that having your rear end cut up without anesthesia must be extremely painful. That's why we have simply chosen to offer merino wool from Uruguay, South Africa, Portugal, or Arles, where mulesing is not practiced because it is not necessary.

Prioritizing Family and Respectful Farms

If you have ever seen images of factory farms, you must have felt a chill down your spine. Indeed, some market players, for the sake of profit, see and treat animals as mere commodities. But as good pirates, we naturally could not allow ourselves to source from these "grogless fools." Wolly Roger loves open-air farms like that of the Attali family or the cooperatives in South Africa where our Cowgirl Blues yarns originate.

Ethical Silk: Our Commitment to "Peace Silk"

Silk has always unleashed passions. At the heart of a millennial trade network between Asia and Europe, its production is now a source of questions. And for good reason, if you've read our article on materials, you've likely understood that the way this fiber is made is not very compatible with the values we hold. While it's difficult for us to offer only "peace silk" yarns for now, we are working hard on it. In the meantime, you can discover Jaipur Peace Silk in our shop in multiple colors.

Vegan Yarns for Every Principle

It is difficult, in the world of knitting and crochet, to bypass animal fibers. We understand the convictions of every woolly pirate and we want everyone to be able to indulge their passion according to their principles. So that our vegan friends can find the right yarn for their wooden leg, we have chosen to offer yarns composed exclusively of plant fibers: Studio Linen, Reborn Denim Uni, Reborn Jeans, and Morning Salutation.

The GOTS Label: A Guarantee of Animal Welfare

We haven't mentioned labels until now, but the topic is important since labels allow us to know with certainty that a yarn's production meets a strict set of specifications. In this case, the most reliable label concerning the textile industry is, of course, the GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) label. Regarding animal welfare, the GOTS label guarantees that animals are fed and cared for organically. They have access to a minimum surface area, which is ventilated, lit, and bedded, as well as access to the outdoors. More details on the GOTS charter [here]. Wolly Roger offers yarns with GOTS certification, including Bio Balance and Northern Lights.

Respect for Humans: Fair Working Conditions

GOTS 2.0: GOTS Certification at the Service of Workers

Not content with guaranteeing good practices in terms of animal welfare, the GOTS label is also beneficial for textile workers. Let's look together at some of its health and social requirements. In terms of health, since certified textiles must be free of harmful chemical inputs (such as heavy metals, chlorinated bleaching agents, or formaldehyde) at all stages of cultivation and processing, farmers and workers are not in contact with deleterious products. At the level of workers' rights, certain sadly frequent practices in the conventional textile industry (such as child labor or forced labor) are prohibited to obtain this certification. Working conditions (hours, pay, safety, freedom of association) must meet extremely strict criteria to ensure the well-being of the people who make the raw materials and finished products.

Inclusion Through Work: Our Committed Partners

Some people face difficulties in the job market. Whether individuals or demographic groups, access to employment is one of the fundamental rights, and it guarantees both subsistence and social connection. Some of our suppliers such as Malabrigo and Cowgirl Blues prioritize the employment of people the job market tends to leave behind, especially women in the autumn of their lives.

Supporting Local and National Production

In a market open to the world, textile companies from all countries can compete to offer consumers products at the best price. But are you really making a saving? By buying a product that has crossed the seas, not only does our environment suffer, but so do our industries. Sheep and goat farms, spinning mills, dye houses: these are all jobs that disappear and, in doing so, contribute to rising unemployment and our social contributions. Supporting French businesses is today a civic act, a way to support our neighbors, our farmers, and our loved ones. This is why Wolly Roger offers French wools like Fonty's 1880, where all stages of production were done in France. We are also very proud to offer yarns from Ferme Attali which has the Marque Alsace label.

Oeko-Tex & Azo-Free: Safety for Everyone

Because knitting must remain accessible and because not everyone has the means to afford certified products, we are nevertheless committed to providing you with only yarns free of azo dyes (these are synthetic dyes that include recognized carcinogenic components). To go further, most of our products have Oeko-Tex certification, which guarantees not only products without azo dyes but also not having been in contact with other harmful compounds such as formaldehyde and nickel.

This list is not exhaustive, but it represents a summary of the important rules that Wolly Roger does not want to deviate from. We hope in the future that the textile industry will make better choices for the well-being of all, but that will not happen without us. We have the power. Take good care, and see you soon for new adventures!

Hopla, Bis bàll!

Jessica