17. The Wolly Roger guide to Yarn: From Carded to Superwash
Hello, knitters, and raise the anchor!
Dear shipmates, when you embark on a knitting adventure, you quickly discover a slightly mysterious language: carded wool, worsted, plied, single ply, superwash... You might think it's just old sea dog jargon, but in reality, understanding these terms is like having a treasure map to choose the perfect yarn and bring magnificent projects to life!
And you know what? Wolly Roger is here to demystify the fascinating world of yarn. Get ready to hoist the sails of knowledge, because we're setting off to explore fibers, from fleece to ready-to-knit yarn!
1. From Sheep to Skein: The First Transformations
Before it becomes a cozy skein, wool goes through several key steps that determine its final texture.
---> Carded Wool: The Rustic Teddy Bear Imagine a raw fleece. Carding is a process that roughly untangles and aligns the fibers without making them parallel. The fibers remain a bit jumbled, which gives the yarn a more voluminous, lighter, airier, and slightly fuzzy appearance. It often has more "character" and a rustic feel.
What projects is it for? Ideal for warm and light sweaters, thick hats, and projects that require loft and a traditional look. Perfect for stranded colorwork and Fair Isle where you want an authentic feel.
Our pirate's take: A yarn that breathes authenticity and the warmth of a fireplace.
---> Worsted Wool: Defined Elegance After carding, some wools undergo an additional step: combing. The fibers are then perfectly aligned and parallel, and the short fibers are removed. This results in a smoother, denser, shinier, and very durable yarn that resists pilling. It will have a more fluid drape and better stitch definition.
What projects is it for? Excellent for complex cables, textured stitches where definition is important, socks (for their durability), and garments that need a good drape.
Our pirate's take: The perfect yarn for projects where fine detail and durability are king.
2. Yarn Construction: Single Ply, Plies, and Twist
Once the fibers are prepared, they are spun to form a strand, then often combined for more strength.
---> Single-Ply Yarn: Fragile Softness A "single ply" yarn is made of a single strand, spun directly from the fibers. It is very soft, has very little twist, and a slightly irregular appearance. It can have a luxurious feel and a beautiful drape. Its characteristics: Since it's made of a single strand, it is generally less resistant to abrasion and can be more prone to pilling. It can also stretch a little more.
What projects is it for? Ideal for soft shawls, relaxed sweaters, and squishy hats where lightness and feel are a priority.
Our pirate's take: A cloud of softness, but one to handle with a little more delicacy. Example: Malabrigo Silky Merino
---> Plied Yarn: The Strength of Multiple Strands The majority of yarns you use are plied yarns. This means that multiple strands (often 2, 3, 4, 8, or more) are spun together, then twisted ("plied") to form a stronger, more stable, and more regular yarn. The twist gives the yarn its strength.
- Types of plies:
2-Ply: Fairly balanced, good definition.
3-Ply: Very good stitch definition, excellent for cables, more stable.
Multi-Ply: Generally rounder, softer, with a lovely plump effect.
- Types of twists:
Tight twist: Gives a denser, more durable yarn with better stitch definition.
Loose twist: Gives a softer, more voluminous yarn, but is less durable.
What projects is it for? Versatile. Plied yarn is ideal for most projects: sweaters, socks, mitts, and accessories that need to last and hold their shape well.
Our pirate's take: Robustness and versatility, a reliable yarn for all adventures! Example: Malabrigo Sock
3. The Superwash Treatment: Machine-Washable Wool Gets Modernized!
You've surely come across this term before. The Superwash treatment is a process that makes wool machine washable without felting. Traditionally, the natural scales of wool fibers (which hook together under the effect of heat and agitation, causing felting) were either smoothed down or coated with a polymer, often chemical.
Advantages of classic Superwash: Easy care (you can wash it in a machine!), often more vibrant and consistent colors, sometimes increased softness.
Disadvantages of classic Superwash: Less eco-friendly (chemical process), the wool has less "memory" (less resilience), and it cannot be felted (see our article on felting!). It can also have a slightly "flatter" appearance
A Key Point on Superwash: The "Lost Memory" Effect
You may have heard the tale of a sweater that came out of the wash bigger than it went in! This isn't a sailor's myth; it's a reality of superwash wool.
The superwash treatment, which makes the yarn machine-washable, flattens or coats the scales of the wool fiber. These scales are what give the wool its natural memory and elasticity. Once treated, the wool can lose this resilience, and the stitches can relax and lengthen under the weight of water.
Why does this happen?
Without its scales to "hook," the yarn is less stable. When the project is wet and heavy, gravity does its work, and the stitches slide, causing the project to grow, particularly in length.
What to do to prevent it?
- Knit and wash a swatch! This is the golden rule. Knit a swatch, wash it as you would the final project, and remeasure it once dry. This is the only way to see how the yarn will behave.
- Knit more tightly. Opt for a smaller needle size than recommended to get a denser tension and a more stable fabric.
- Choose textured stitches. Stitches with a built-in structure, like ribbing or seed stitch, are less likely to stretch than simple stockinette stitch.
How to fix it?
- Never hang the project to dry. Lay it flat on a towel so the weight of the water doesn't pull on the stitches.
- Block gently. If you need to block your project, avoid stretching it. Shape it gently to return it to its original dimensions.
The New Eco-Friendly Superwash: When Innovation Rhymes with Sustainability! Good news, shipmate! The world of wool is evolving, and new, more environmentally friendly Superwash treatment methods are emerging. These innovations make it possible to make wool machine washable without the use of harsh chemicals like chlorine.
- These eco-friendly treatments often use physical processes or bio-based polymers to prevent felting. This means you can enjoy the practicality of Superwash while making a more responsible choice for the planet.
- The Naturetexx® Plasma Process: BC Garn's Eco-Revolution At Wolly Roger, we are proud to offer yarns like Merry Merino from BC Garn, which benefit from one of these cutting-edge technologies: the Naturetexx® Plasma process. Developed by the Südwolle Group, this revolutionary method uses electricity and air (plasma) to modify the surface of the wool fiber. Instead of using chemicals to destroy or coat the scales, the plasma modifies the friction of the fibers, preventing them from hooking together and felting. This process is not only chlorine-free and free of harmful chemicals, but it is also powered by renewable energy. It is thanks to innovations like Naturetexx® Plasma that wools like Merry Merino can obtain demanding organic labels (like GOTS), while still being machine washable. It's proof that we can combine comfort, practicality, and respect for the environment in our knitting projects!
What projects is it for? These "next-generation Superwash" yarns are perfect for baby items, children's clothes, or any everyday project that requires frequent washing, without compromising on ethics.
Our pirate's take: Pure practicality, now compatible with ecology thanks to innovations like Naturetexx® Plasma. A real breath of fresh air for our needles!
There you have it, shipmates, the great decoding is over! Now, when you choose your next yarn from Wolly Roger, you'll know exactly what treasure is hidden behind the labels.
Each type of yarn has its own personality and strengths, so it's up to you to choose the one that will hoist your project to the top!
Hopla, bis bàll,
Jessica