02. Our fibers
Hello knitters and cheer up!
Today I would like to talk to you about the fibers that make up the yarns sold by Wolly Roger.
ALPACA
Alpaca (also called alpaca) is a fiber that comes from the animal of the same name (and which is super cute). They are from the camelid family, like llamas and camels. Alpacas are native to South America, specifically the Andes Mountains, a place where the temperature can range from -20°C to 30°C. With such a range, you can imagine that the fleece of these adorable creatures is thermoregulating and breathable. There are two breeds of alpaca: the Suri, which looks like a stuffed animal, and the Huacaya, which has long dreadlocks.
Although today we find alpacas almost everywhere, mainly intended for tourist hikes, the fleece used to make the yarns comes mainly from South America. The animals are shorn once a year and each alpaca produces around 2.5 kg of wool per year, which makes it a rare and therefore, of course, expensive fiber. More resistant than sheep's wool, it is also much warmer because it contains microscopic air bubbles, moreover, alpaca wool has a very unique luster, even after washing. Finally, it is a hypoallergenic wool, because it does not contain lanolin and very soft because it is very fine (from 12 to 28 microns) therefore perfect for people with sensitive skin.
At Wolly Roger, we have selected for you a baby alpaca from one of the oldest Peruvian spinning mills: the baby alpaca from BC GARN (baby alpaca means that the fiber is 18 to 22 microns in diameter, not that it comes from a young animal).
BLUEFACED LEICESTER
The Bluefaced Leicester (we'll call it BFL, as it's nicknamed) is a British sheep breed. The yarn made from its fleece is an exceptional yarn that many compare to merino. The breed originated in Leicestershire, the county of Leicester, from which it takes its name.
Why Bluefaced, you might ask? Because it looks like its nose is completely blue! Rest assured, this is just an illusion created by the superposition of small white hairs on its very dark, almost black, skin. It's a relatively new breed that was originally developed for its meat, but its fleece has such a special luster and softness that fiber lovers quickly gave the BFL pride of place.
There are many reasons for this craze for BFL: the hair is long and fine enough not to cause itching (hence its comparison with merino), it is a durable and resistant yarn both to wear and to washing, its natural luster allows for vibrant colors after dyeing. Its fineness ranges between 24 and 28 microns. This bouncy fiber is perfect in association with silk or mohair to which it adds elasticity without removing their original virtues.
Our choice at Wolly Roger fell in particular on BFL from ERIKA KNIGHT, mixed with Masham for the Wool Local or 100% BFL with the British Blue (available in Fingering or DK).
VIRGIN WOOL
Virgin wool is a bit of a catch-all term, and each brand/industry has its own definition. Within the Woolmark label, it can refer to wool harvested from healthy, living animals (as opposed to other wools harvested from slaughtered animals, or recycled wool). But the term "virgin wool" can also be used to refer to wool from the very first shearing of a lamb.
We use this term to refer to yarns made from the wool of adult sheep that are not part of the Merino and Bluefaced Leicester breeds, which we classify in a different category. The "virgin wool" category includes several types of yarn, including wool from the Attali farm (Texel and Scottish Blackface sheep) and Wool Local, made from a BFL & Masham blend.
MERINO
The wool of merino sheep (or merinos) really has a special place because it has exceptional qualities that make it very popular with a wide audience. Indeed, merino has the reputation of being a "high-performance" wool... I know, it's a very strange description to talk about a wool, but this one deserves it. You will have undoubtedly guessed from its name, merino is of Spanish origin and it remained so from the 12th century and for a very long time and for good reason: exporting it was punishable by death until the 18th century!
The popularity of merino wool is due to certain specific characteristics: its fiber is very fine (from 12 to 35 microns) and very long, which makes it very soft on the skin. Its length also makes it durable. Because the fleece of this sheep is particularly curly, merino yarns are very resilient, their elasticity lasting over time. As if that weren't enough to seduce us, merino wool is naturally antibacterial and thermoregulating, making it an excellent fiber for year-round use. It dries very quickly and can be superwash treated for easy maintenance. This fiber, stronger than cotton, is becoming a must-have for hikers and athletes in extreme conditions. From the military to the fashion industry, merino is an unbeatable fiber.
It's also our favorite at Wolly Roger and we offer you, among others, merino yarns from MALABRIGO: mulesing-free and hand-dyed, the hardest part will be choosing the color for your next project!
MOHAIR
If I tell you that mohair is the fiber obtained by shearing the Angora goat, you will certainly answer me, so what is angora? The textile that we call angora actually comes from Angora rabbits… yes I know, it’s facetious. But why make it simple when you can make it complicated? There are two types of mohair: classic, normal mohair, which comes from the Angora goat and kid-mohair which comes from the young Angora goat!
The luster of so-called mohair wool is due to its large scales, unfortunately if this makes it a very luminous fiber, it also makes it rather "prickly" to the touch and I would not recommend wearing mohair next to the skin to someone with sensitive skin (25-45 microns). It remains a very popular wool due to its fluffy and "hairy" side, ideal for airy knitting or openwork stitches, which gives it a cozy side that other wools do not have.
South Africa is the largest producer of mohair (over 60% of global production) and our choice fell on Cowgirl Blues with 2 qualities: Kidsilk and Fluffy Mohair, each available in solid or gradient, but whichever you choose, you can be sure that they are from free-range animals and hand-dyed.
SILK
When we talk about silk, it often brings with it a connotation of luxury and refinement, but despite its precious appearance, silk is the strongest natural fiber there is. Sericulture (breeding silkworms) is over 5,000 years old. China is the origin of this practice and the process was carefully guarded for several millennia, thus creating one of the most famous trade networks in history, the Silk Road. It is said that the secret of silk manufacturing was divulged to other civilizations through spies.
There are different types of silk threads, without specifying, we will talk about a thread of incomparable shine and thermoregulatory qualities which makes it a thread of choice for the four seasons. But it can also be bourette silk, in which case the breathable and insulating qualities remain, but the fiber will have a semi-matte appearance, as if mottled: bourette silk contains "impurities", it is a raw silk, with a more rustic feel.
P.gibellini, CC0
Silk is currently losing popularity, partly due to fierce competition from synthetic fibers such as nylon, viscose, and polyester, and partly due to its controversial animal welfare aspects. At Wolly Roger, we offer you an Eri silk thread: Jaipur Peace Silk from BC GARN, obtained using a process that does not harm the life of silkworms.
VEGETAL
Cotton, the fiber used primarily in the textile industry, needs no introduction. The cotton plant is quite water-intensive. Because it is highly breathable, cotton is the perfect summer material.
Cotton isn't the favorite fiber of knitters/crocheters, but let's be honest, it's perfect for making home decor accessories like shower sponges or potholders, for example. Like many plant fibers, it's not very elastic, and blocking won't save you from uneven work. But this particularity nevertheless gives it a very rustic look that contributes to its charm.
At Wolly Roger, we opted for recycled cotton: Reborn denim from KREMKE SOUL WOOL, with its affordable price and variety of colors.
Linen is also a popular fiber for summer outfits. It is slowly coming back into the spotlight because, unlike cotton, it is a particularly eco-friendly fiber. Firstly, because it can be local (France is the leading linen producer, accounting for 80% of global production), its cultivation requires very little water and little or no fertilizer, and finally, linen cultivation produces no waste; the entire plant is used. Regarding its textile qualities, it has great absorbency and thermoregulation due to its hollow fiber.
Our Studio Linen from ERIKA KNIGHT is made from 85% recycled linen and 15% premium linen and comes in a range of pastel and refined colors. Lyocell is a type of viscose, a man-made fiber made from wood pulp.
Tencel TM lyocell is renowned for its closed-loop production system where 99% of the water is reused. PETA calls Tencel TM "the environmentally friendly, versatile yarn." Its elasticity gives it great strength, and items knitted with Tencel are easy to care for: it's machine washable at 30°C. Like the plant-based fibers presented above, we recommend Tencel for summer knits. It also works wonders for baby clothes, as it's a very round yarn that withstands multiple machine washes. Morning Salutation from KREMKE SOUL WOOL (51% Tencel, 49% cotton) and its vibrant hues have completely won us over, and we're proud to offer you such a versatile yarn.
This list is subject to change and will be updated if it changes.
Hopla, bis ball!
Jessica